So i need that, shaft seal, dust seal, turn signal switch, and ignition lock cylinder. I need to talk to Grant to figure out which one I need. I realize now what I need is an entire new steering wheel adapter set, which includes a spring. This doesn't look like that but their chart is saying it'll fit |tkp:Bk9SR8SU-_b1YQĮDIT: nevermind about the spring. I also don't have the seal and autokrafters was unable to help. I do not have the spring but I can easily substitute that I'm sure with some dimensions. So I want to start on this now but I also want to make sure I have everything. There is a rubber ring that wraps around the upper inner shaft bearing too, most of the time both bearing/rubber sleeve can be reused, just clean really good and repack with good quality grease. If you just hammer the bottom of the shaft, it will "collapse" the shaft and overall length will be shortened, tell me how I know. When reinstalling, to get upper bearing back onto shaft, use a 3/8 or 1/2" rod (threaded ready rod) long enough so when you pass it through the center hole where the rag joint mount is, it bottoms up against the upper solid shaft and sticks out far enough pass the bottom of the rag joint mount, then you can use hammer to carefully seat the bearing till it bottoms against the lower c-clip (as the shaft passes through the bearing, you will see the groove appear for the upper c-clip), this should help eliminate the possibility of "collapsing" the shaft. Use some fine/med emery to clean up any "burrs" that maybe around groove where the upper c-clip is, clean up and I used anti-seize on the bearing surface of the shaft and ID of bearing. The solid upper half is design to "collapse" into the lower half 3/4" DD tube in an accident. One other thing try and measure the total length of the inner shaft, from top of where steering wheel nut is to bottom of shaft where rag joint mounts, before you do anything! Sometimes the shaft will "collapse" slightly and you have to readjust back to original length. If you are just removing the inner shaft, then you do not have to worry about this! I think I have covered the removal, if I missed something, perhaps another member may chime in, it has been 7 months or so, when I did this.good luck!ĭO NOT force anything!!! The most difficult part for me was lining up those 2 bolt/clamps securing the upper halves of the outer collars! (ones that retain the turn signal assemble/parking indicator/column shifter lever). Once shaft is free from the bearing, remove the nut and the inner shaft should slide out from the bottom. If I can remember, once you remove the c-clip, install/thread down the steering wheel nut, so flush with end of shaft and carefully tap down the shaft and it should separate from the bearing, spray some sort of penetrating fluid between the inner bearing collar/shaft, let it sit, may help removal. You will obviously have to remove the steering wheel, then carefully remove the turn signal assembly, taking pictures is your best friend too! Once those are removed you can see the inner shaft bearing and "c-clip" that secures the upper bearing, which is what you listed from Auto-Krafters. Yes, you will have to separate/disassemble the column, definitely something you can do and since it is already out of the car, much easier!
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